Tasting Notes

Repeat visitors to Zurich are already aware of Old Town’s top attractions: St. Peter’s Church, whose clock is the largest of any church in Europe; and the double towers of the Grossmünster cathedral, the city's most famous landmark, where visitors can climb 187 stairs for a bird's eye view over Zurich rooftops and beyond to the majestic Alpine mountains. But the area’s quiet charm, cobblestone streets, car-free alleys, and quaint sidewalk cafés are worth another look. Walliser Keller (21 Zähringerstrasse; +41-44-269-44-44) is a favorite for traditional Swiss fondue served inside cozy red gondolas that once carried skiers up the Alps.

Walk off the calories with a leisurely climb through the medieval city center to the top of Lindenhof Hill. There, enjoy watching regulars playing a life-size game of chess on a large checkerboard paved with stones.

To explore the modern side of the city, head to Zurich West, the land of transformation. "This is the trendy district, and the place where hip creative types converge," says Schwarzenbach-Götti. Not to be missed is Puls 5 (18 Giessereistrasse; +41-44-544-10-82). Built in a former foundry, there are restaurants and small shops, but the centerpiece is the exhibition hall, which hosts large art fairs, including the Contemporary Art Fair Zurich each September. Yet, there's always something going on, from wine fairs to a pop-up village market.

Take a day trip about 40 minutes outside of the city to experience the 23 mile Living Wine Route (Branch Association Zurich Wine; +41-58-105-91), which begins in Winterhur, at the center of wine country, and passes through farming villages and Rhine Falls, Europe’s largest waterfall. Local vintners from the region host hikes along the route, opening their cellars to visitors, and offering an opportunity to experience the fruits of their labor.

Alternatively, a one and a half hour drive takes oenophiles to the town of Stäfa along Lake Zurich's Gold Coast, where visitors can experience wine-focused events almost every weekend of the year. The largest is celebrated in the first week of October at the Stafner Sauser Sunntig, when the wineries invite guests to toast to their harvest. At Schwarzenbach Weinbau (867 Seestrasse, Meilen; +41-44-923-01-25) join a community of winemakers for a special tasting in the Basement WG cellar, which is an extension of the Schwarzenbach Weinbau compound. It's where four different wineries-Diederik, Luthi, Schnorf, and Schwarzenbach-press their grapes. Here visitors can sample the distinctly different character of each wine. A treasured tasting experience to be sure.

Zurich is a madcap mix of fun, if you know where to look. Take part in the Fox Trail Zurich (ZVV, Lowenstrasse Hall;+41-44-215-40-00) for a totally different take on sightseeing. The treasure hunt leads explorers through the city on foot or by train with a series of clues, humorous hints, and secret messages.

For a shopping trip with an architectural history lesson built in, visit the converted railway viaduct in Zurich West, IM Viadukt (Viaduktstrasse; +41-44-412-83-93), where spaces beneath 36 arches built in 1894 now house art galleries, small boutiques, restaurants, and an indoor farmer's market. Ten minutes away along the railway tracks is Frau Gerolds Garten (23 Geroldstrasse; +41-78-971-67-64), an urban garden and gathering place, built among shipping containers. In spring and summer, crowds gather on the terrace and at open-air bars. In winter, a parlor inside the wooden pavilion serves comfort food–a menu loaded with a choice of fondues. In March, the menu changes to its Rübis & Stübis theme, where chefs are challenged to create resource-conscious dishes. 2017's theme, "From Leaf To Root," kept up a three-year tradition of creating dishes where no ingredient-or bite-was wasted.

The Little Red Train (142 Limmatquai; +41-44-434-41-11), technically known as the Polybahn funicular rail, never fails to deliver superb views over Lake and the city’s landmarks. Best of all, it leaves every two to five minutes.

Take in more great views from the top of Üetliberg mountain via a cable car, which can be reached in 20 minutes via the Üetliberg Railway (8143 Üetliberg; +41-44-457-66-66). Once the cable car drops you off, there's plenty to do on Üetliberg besides take in the scenery. For the view of a lifetime, join members of tje Paragliding Club Zurich (info@pgzh.ch), or contact one of the many paragliding flight schools that offer tandem high-altitude flights that take off from the mountain.

For a picturesque perspective from the ground, Zurich's main street Bahnhofstrasse leads to the town square of Bürkliplatz, a starting spot for tours and a vegetable market that sets up twice a week. There you'll find a statue of the son of Zeus, a perfect backdrop for photos thanks to its prime placement-behind the statue is a postcard view of boats on Lake Zurich and the snow-capped Alps in the background.

To experience Swiss tavern culture, Schwarzenbach- Götti recommends enjoying a bit of country life. Just 10 minutes outside the city center is Restaurant Adlisberg (75 Adlisbergstrasse; +41-44-266-91-91), housed in a converted farmhouse on Zürichberg Hill, where home-style cuisine is served in an atmosphere of rustic charm. "They have a great wine list, too," she says.

Another place to explore a variety of Swiss wines? Neumarkt (5 Neumarkt; +41-44-252-79-39), where you’ll find the most beautiful garden in the middle of Old Town to sit outside, enjoy a meal, and a wine list with rare local vintages. Particularly quaint is the interior bar and café where locals gather in the evening to appreciate fine wines, delicious schnapps and brandies, and various light bites.